• Notes on the Art of Dressing Well: Observations from Europe

    One of my favorite pastimes is looking at how people dress. Fashion feels wonderfully alive to me, something to play with and observe, a language of its own in fabric and silhouette. I had such fun noticing the differences between European (an overgeneralization, of course, given the regional nuances) and New York fashion. The distinctions, which I will try to untangle here, seem shaped far more by climate than by taste alone. You will not need a coat in Mallorca, and in Tromsø you will be grateful for anything insulated before you begin to think about aesthetics, save perhaps for a bikini in a sauna before a polar plunge into the harbor’s ice-cold water.

    In London, I saw ballet flats, heels, and boots everywhere; sneakers on women were comparatively rare, especially when contrasted with New York. Beige coats dominated the streets—some unmistakably Burberry, others renditions. In London, heels and boots seemed nearly universal; yes, women in New York wear them too, yet the prevalence of a heeled boot throughout Europe creates an impression of height and refinement that subtly alters posture.  Walking through the financial district, not Canary Wharf with its glass towers to the east but the one-square-mile City of London itself, I was struck by the visible effort women put into their workwear. I do not often walk through Midtown during the morning commute, so perhaps I miss something, yet in New York the black summer suit appears almost obligatory, which feels dreary given the possibilities of color and fabric available to professional clothing. Even in SoHo’s Aritzia, where certain pieces are still somewhat charming, the lack of natural fibers makes the clothing faintly lifeless despite the scattered pale pink and light blue hues.

    I would sometimes go to class without makeup, maybe wet hair, and feel a bit unfinished, almost like I had forgotten to brush my teeth or put my shoes on, because so many women wore lipstick, styled hair, and had an air of deliberate polish– I loved their effort, their preparation! I noticed a lot of bright reds, as well as coordinated belts, boots, and bags (especially dark brown or purple). In New York, I’ll notice a range of fur coats – mostly faux, occasionally rabbit, sometimes mink – which are impractical for London’s damp climate. In my opinion, a faux fur collar can be elegant but an entire coat looks garish.

    Harrods, the department store, deserves mention. The gift shop alone was where the theories in my class on British design came alive: stationery, water bottles, umbrellas, all-bearing William Morris prints, Victorian flourishes, and that particular British affection for nature and calligraphy. Every object, down to the pens, was bespoke. I left with a light blue Harrods toile tote for summer, and a green menagerie-themed pen and stationery set: all my holiday cards for the year were written on those!

    Bruges, Belgium, surprised me with its colorful sartorial selection. I brought home a huge white scarf, delicate lavender gloves, and a pink mohair sweater that looked like a very well-bred cloud, along with pieces influenced by Antwerp, often called Belgium’s fashion capital. The textures felt alive – and I thoroughly appreciated the look of fluffy mohair afterwards!

    Positano’s boutiques were astonishingly expensive, but the patterns were too magnificent to dismiss on price alone. A dark blue bikini with polka-dot lemons caught my eye (I swear I couldn’t stop admiring it for five full minutes); a coral sundress stole my heart. Tourists chose structured sun hats over classically American baseball caps and flowing skirts over denim; long patterned trousers for those riding motorcycles, sometimes leather if one arrived prepared. Beyond fashion, the sculptural, painted, and ceramic galleries awed me beyond comparison (and so did those craggy mountains overlooking the Amalfi coast!), and though my suitcase and budget discouraged indulgence, I wished I could have brought some art home.

    Rome and Trieste offered beautifully made clothing at astonishingly modest prices, from long fall coats trimmed with faux fur to linen dresses and silk tops. My only hesitation was tailoring; they were pretty much one-size-fits-all, and many garments would need adjustment (I need to learn to sew anyway!). In a Roman vintage store, I found real fur boots no longer produced by MoonBoot, created by an owner who once lived above Caffè Reggio in Greenwich Village in the 1990s, and I carried them home for a fraction of what I would have paid in the United States.

    In Prague and Paris, fur coats lined the streets and filled shop windows, and vintage and consignment shopping seemed like a cultural habit rather than an occasional indulgence. In Prague, I visited a shop where Louis Vuitton second-hand purses were priced at a quarter of their American equivalents. I particularly loved the independent boutiques and store concepts: I even encountered a café-bar-laundromat hybrid, quite practical and charming. The color palette skewed darker there, closer to New York’s signature black sartorial palette.

    Conversely, Berlin surprised me by how little black I saw during the day: like London, there were plenty of beige and soft neutrals. Vienna and Bratislava leaned more alternative, closer to what one imagines of Berlin’s daytime aesthetic. At night, however, fashion shifted dramatically, especially in certain clubs that shall remain unnamed, where clothing became minimal… and whatever remained on had to be, well, sexy, panther-like.

    In Mallorca, I focused on their jewelry stores (to be honest, the clothes were geared towards middle-aged German tourists). I purchased several silver bracelets and a real pearl one from two different shop owners who were generous with their time and stories. The first shop, tucked away on a quiet street near Palma’s cathedral, displayed silver bracelets that caught the sunlight beautifully, mesmerizingly. Around that time, I decided to commit more seriously to silver, which complements my pale skin better than gold ever has (tragic!). The pearl jeweler from one of the aforementioned stores chatted with me for an hour in the midmorning, explaining oyster cultivation practices in China and Australia and the global demand for Mallorca’s factory-made pearls. I chose a real one, slightly irregular and cream-toned (shockingly student-budget appropriate, mind you).

    Fashion in Tromsø occupies a different category altogether. Everything was ridiculously expensive, being so far away from the rest of the world’s commerce: a casual restaurant burger was thirty-four dollars. There were few fashion boutiques, which is understandable in a place where the need for warmth supersedes aesthetics. To stand out, though, the gift shops leaned heavily into bold “Norway” lettering as part of their appeal. I relied on my chic fur boots from that thrift shop in Rome, thermal layers, and the white Bruges scarf to endure the cold. In the Polar Museum, wax figures dressed in fur-lined hats and coats, commonplace here before mass-produced Canada Goose parkas took over. It was neat to see that Arctic exploration was done in outerwear both functional and enviable (I’ve hardly seen a nicer coat during NY Fashion Week!).

    If I regret anything, it is not purchasing more jewelry, which tends to be more expensive and less durable in the United States. Much of the faux gold that’s now in style appears tacky and garish, and unsuitable for water, which defeats its purpose for me since I refuse to remove bracelets at the beach. 

    Back to clothing ethics and basics: sustainability and durability distinguish what feels enduring from what quickly falls apart. Fabrics must match and flow easily into one another; matching accessories create a nice sense of coherence. In A Very Short Introduction to Beauty, which I enjoyed reading on trips through London’s Underground, the author writes that fashion “permits people to play with appearances, to send recognizable messages to the society of strangers, and to be at one with their own appearance in a world where appearances count.” That sentiment validated my distaste for certain parts of New York’s prevailing style before I left: sweatpants, oversized silhouettes, and ubiquitous leggings often project something too casual to take oneself seriously.

    What I saw across many European cities was a sense of self-certainty expressed through dress, a willingness to participate in one’s own presentation.

    Interestingly, Europe has recently taken a legislative step that may reinforce that attitude toward clothing. New regulations under the European Union’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) establish a framework requiring large companies—generally those with more than 1,000 employees—to conduct due diligence regarding human rights violations and environmental impacts across their supply chains. Among other things, the law makes it far more difficult for companies to rely on loosely regulated overseas subsidiaries to produce clothing without accountability for labor practices or sustainability standards.

    While these rules primarily affect the largest brands, they represent a meaningful step in addressing the harms of fast fashion, which has become damaging both to the environment and to the workers who produce inexpensive garments at scale. Beyond those structural concerns, fast fashion also carries an aesthetic consequence: clothing made to be disposable often looks disposable. The effect can feel disconnected, as though the wearer has little relationship to the objects they choose to put on their body.

    Dressing well, in the sense I observed across many European streets, seems tied to a different mentality — one that values durability, materials, and intention. If clothing is a form of self-expression, it is difficult to separate that expression from the conditions under which it was made. As reasoning beings, the choices we make about what we buy inevitably reflect the values we hold, and there is something quietly satisfying about purchasing from companies that attempt to uphold ethical standards while producing garments meant to last.

    Fashion, after all, is not simply decoration; it is participation.

  • 36 hours in Paris

    Arriving at Fashion Week in the back of a moving truck; thanks,Vogue!

    I had planned a trip to Paris one weekend in late September, as it was the last weekend of my parents’ apartment lease. I had some boxes to relocate and to make sure we didn’t leave anything before moving out. The night before, Graciela had texted me “what if I came with you…” and the trip became not so solo, which was perfect.

    Friday, Sept. 26th

    Eight hours before leaving for my flight, I decided to take myself out to dinner for a salad and two cocktails. Halfway through dinner I started to not feel so great, which I chose to ignore, as all great doctors advise. By 1 a.m., I was sweating with chills and cramps. When I woke up at 4 a.m. for my flight, I was packing while dizzy and with a swollen face, googling “signs of anaphylaxis,” “signs of food poisoning,” and whether or not it was mandated that Air France carry epi pens on their aircrafts (it’s not). While googling my symptoms convinced me I had about 36 hours left to live – again, all great doctors advise googling your symptoms – I accepted my fate of passing in Paris (poor me) and got on my flight anyway. 

    Saturday, Sept. 27th

    I landed at 9 a.m. and made my way over to the apartment, where I met Graciela. First order of business was a croissant, tea, coffee, and catch up. We talked about New York and Milan fashion weeks, friends we’ve met abroad, and also spent the majority of the time moaning at our croissants and spacing out from sleep deprivation. Afterwards, we took a picture with the wolf mannequin outside of the restaurant and went on a very long walk which consisted of window shopping and discussing the difference between the United Kingdom, Britain, and England – which I must admit, I already forgot. We visited the Jellycat cafe at Printemps, and then decided we needed fuel that was not just a croissant.

    We left Printemps and tried to find a walk-in restaurant. We walked for 45 minutes through the Asian Quarter, Quartier Asiatique, but ultimately found a restaurant with a mixture of Italian, American, and French food. Another meal well spent spacing out from hunger and sleep deprivation. Afterwards, we took our time walking back over to the 1st arrondissement, buying two two Euro bottles of wine – which the storeclerk almost threw them at us for – and sat on the Seine drinking them. We watched ducks fight over nothing, waved at passing boats, and sang along to the violinist on the bridge above us. We then walked back to the apartment, where Graciela took a nap and I watched a Shane Gillis Netflix special, before getting ready for dinner.

    We were having dinner with one of my good friends from high school, Maggie, who is studying abroad in Paris, at a restaurant across the street which has great cocktails and salads. A photoshoot took place in our apartment afterwards, followed by a night out.

    Our first victim was La Fête, which had (at least) a 200 person line down the block. As frequenters at clubs with no lines, just clumps, we decided not to wait in line and just watch behind the clump of people at the barricade. We had no expectations of getting in, but wanted to see those who were while we waited for the rest of our group to meet us. The door man was a very fabulously dressed man in a cropped jacket, tight black jeans, heeled boots, and very neon make up. He was picking people out of the crowd and letting in those with tables – there wasn’t much of a “vibe consistency” that I could notice from who was getting in. I was still focused on the 200 person line, confused as to why it existed considering it was not moving while the barricade cluster was. At some point, the rest of our group came and we started the 15 minute walk over to Carmen.

    To get into Carmen, we decided to come in two groups: one of four, one of five. The first group of five got denied due to there being a “private event,” but then our group of four got in; later, some girls from the original group of five came in. The bouncer was a very tall man in all black: sweater, pants, and trench coat. The inside of Carmen is absolutely gorgeous – it is a classic, old French interior. There are reliefs of little angels on the walls, ionic-esque columns, classically painted ceilings, and gilded mirrors, also with reliefs. There are oil paintings everywhere, a few chairs inside a birdcage for visitors to sit in, and a smoke box that could fit around 15 people looking for their nicotine fix. There is red lighting, a disco ball, and blue LED dots, along with a large bar and dance floor. My one quarrel with this night was that no one was dancing to the techno music, it was a sea of people standing – either on their phones or just trying to talk over the music. The only bodily movements came from being pushed by someone trying to get through. However, it was a great people-watching opportunity.

    The notable crowd members were a group of English-speaking men (Australian? British? Surprisingly not American), one sporting a cowboy hat and the other sporting a lack of spatial awareness, as the joke of our night became how far away he could push you with his bum while dancing. Another man approached us and asked how long we were in Paris for, to which we responded 36 hours, and then he said we weren’t at the right place to see Paris nightlife. He never followed up with where we should’ve been, and we will never know because after staring at us for ten seconds he decided to trot away. Our last interaction was with a man who pointed at Maggie’s outfit, and when she said “oui?” he also trotted away. Overall, we didn’t interact too much with the crowd, but definitely remembered the times we did. 

    Sunday, Sept. 28th

    We had a laborious task ahead of us: moving my family’s things to a storage unit. After getting to the apartment on Saturday and seeing our boxes, I realized I would have to call for some back up power. But before Maggie’s friends came to help us, I went and got scrambled eggs, a pot of tea, and an entire baguette which I devoured within 20 minutes. Once the friends arrived, they helped us move the boxes outside the apartment and we waited for the Uber(s), which both canceled after seeing the boxes. 

    Through divine intervention a moving truck had pulled up across the street, and after noticing every car that approached us ended up leaving, asked if they could help. We waited for an hour for them to finish their actual job before helping us on this side quest. Once we loaded up the truck, we realized there was only one available seat in the car, but we needed all four of us at the storage unit… After some French negotiations, the man opened the back of the truck to show us a little bench by our boxes. Three of us sat on this bench, holding on to our boxes. The trunk was lit up only by the sun through the plastic roof, really allowing us to embody the feeling of being a piece of moving furniture. It was quite a role, dare I say our best. For being in the back of a moving truck, it was quite a smooth ride. Once we arrived we paid our saviours, moved our boxes, and said our goodbyes to the kind friends who assisted us in moving. 

    Graciela and I wandered over to Pierre Hermé for a macaron treat. I had my first ever macaron, and was very jealous I did not get a box of six like Graciela, who is a macaron connoisseur. We made our way back to the apartment, did a last round of cleanups, and discovered a bottle of champagne which became a gift to Graciela, as I was heading out for the airport. 

    She made her way over to the Eiffel Tower, watched the sunset and drank some champagne. It was a good conclusion to our weekend, and a good start to Paris Fashion Week, to which we told everyone we arrived in the back of a moving truck.