• Mules and Leopard Print and Ostrich Bags, Oh My!: A Crash Course in Cultural Anthropology

    Before I left for Europe, I’d started to lose interest in New York. Everyone was wearing pleather and black Doc Martens, wearing sweatpants to class. It was lazy in its style, the people at the club were stuck-up, and all the reservations for the outdoor seating on Lafayette Street in SoHo were taken up by what I disparagingly term the “unemployeds.” But absence makes the heart grow fonder, and coming back from studying abroad in London has made me see it in a new light. The people say “please” and “thank you” when you least expect it, I’m able to walk into my favorite restaurant with only a five minute wait, and the street style is more fashion-forward (and preppier, more well-coiffed) than the ridiculous and outrageous outfits on the New York Street style Instagram would have you believe.

    I walk through Nolita, SoHo, and Greenwich Village to get to class most days, taking detours through the West Village, East Village, and the LES when I’ve got time on my hands. I like Tribeca for its polish and glamour– stylish mothers pushing strollers with fresh blowouts, contemporary art galleries, little brunch places with families, and college friend meetups. I love the West Village for its collision of worlds – you see high-powered couples from Connecticut in long Burberry coats sharing the sidewalk with five teenagers from Long Island in their blue jeans and black top uniform, each holding the exact same matcha.

    I consider myself a cultural anthropologist in the truest street-style sense. I only recently realized that not everyone is watching the passerby as intently as I am – maybe not their personality, envisioning their lives outside of that moment, but certainly their outfits and the way they carry themselves – head held high, or, unfortunately, in most cases, shoulders slouched with a case of tech-neck. Something I’ve noted is that status here rarely announces itself the way you’d expect, a kind of elaborate camouflage. Everyone in Manhattan is wearing their status symbols: for men, a tee from Aimé Leon Dore, a Stüssy hoodie, or a Chrome Hearts hoodie; for women, a designer bag (take your pick of Prada nylon or Louis Vuitton Neverful), a fur coat, a pair of Manolo Blahnik heels. But those status symbols sometimes tend towards raggedy and unkempt, and the effect of that trend boggles my mind: why are bare nails considered a status symbol now? Why is the all-black sweat suit costing the man at Sant Ambroeus twenty thousand dollars, and why does he think it shows his self-importance more (I mean, he’s sitting in Sant Ambroeus, after all) than if he wore a polo and jeans? It’s interesting that you can’t always tell what someone does for a living, or whether they take the subway or have a driver, or what their apartment looks like. 

    Here’s what I’ve been noticing as of recent: the Alaïa mesh ballet flats (and every Alaïa-inspired knockoff from here to Zara); the bootcut jean revival; white-on-cream tonal dressing — think wide-leg linen trousers with a slouchy cream crewneck, Nantucket-prep gone downtown; the Adidas Gazelle, still going strong since 2016; tiny oval sunglasses on everyone (I’m partial to huge frames – so much more mysterious!); tailored office suiting worn by women lounging outside Sartiano’s, glancing at the chic passerbys at the crosswalk headed to iconic Fanelli’s, relaxing at the end of the workday; chic Europeans taking up every outdoor table at Sant Ambroeus in SoHo at 11 in the morning on a Tuesday; the line at Mimi’s stretching half a block for (mediocre) froyo. At night, the crowd waiting outside the Bowery Ballroom, Ray’s on Chrystie street, and the Box is doing something more interesting: slingback heels with sheer pantyhose (everyone’s committed, but I can’t get behind it – pick a season you’re dressing for!), studded rhinestone denim (on the legs, on the back pockets) and silver everything: Mary Janes, ballet flats, mules. Silver is basically a neutral now, whether you’re going to work or a dive bar on Orchard street.

    Speaking of places, some that I’ve noticed that have been weirdly drawing a chic crowd: Little Italy, not even the tourists, now it’s the yuppies, too. Tascha, the Portuguese place that’s only open on Thursdays, is always packed. Rintintin, my favorite restaurant in Manhattan (the chef recognizes me when I walk down the block, and I’m distracted from my favorite unwinding activity – intensely staring at what everyone’s wearing and what the solo diners are typing on their laptops). La Pecora Bianca with the aforementioned teens here for the day with their moms from Long Island; Leon’s bagels, especially on Mulberry street; Odd Sister in SoHo, a couple blocks away from my favorite store, Retrofete; I could keep going on and on, because once the temperature rises above 70, every restaurant south of Houston street, from Varick to Orchard, fills with the “unemployeds,” waiting on lines of all sorts, from the New York or Nowhere shop to the Mexican place, Michtlan, in Dimes Square. 

    Summer is the season that’s best to show off feminine style – billowy maxi-skirts, flowy blouses, the kind of easy, unselfconscious dressing that’s like Carrie Bradshaw’s style crossed with the dreamiest fashion show, which is obviously the Gianni Versace spring 1995 fashion show. My one unwavering conviction: if it’s fake, don’t wear it. Pleather and faux fur almost always look gaudy. They look cheaper than ordinary polyester, because they’re obvious imitations, the fashion equivalent of a knockoff Missoni print on an Amazon bikini, or a polyester blouse someone at a vintage shop is hoping you’ll mistake for Pucci.

    Other things I’ve seen on repeat this season: black athletic skin-tight romper bodysuits (not a fan, too simple), capris making a return, a lot of turquoise, pointed-toe flats with little buckles, silk shorts paired with an oversized Knicks tee (laundry day?), chunky pearl necklaces, long gingham dresses and seersucker doing the prairie-meets-prep thing, and the New Balance 530 sneakers (I love their silver and shine!). One sincere loss, though: nautical fashion is basically gone this season. A navy striped marinière, Ralph Lauren crewneck sweaters, wide-leg sailor trousers…

    The pop-up economy on Broome and Spring Streets has been a real bright spot. In recent weeks alone: Alice + Olivia, Retrofête, Rag & Bone, Lanvin, Veronica Beard, JW Pei with those colorful rhinestone bags. These are brands that are not fast fashion, not disposable, not boring, for the most part. Which brings me to my broader conviction about getting dressed: every single piece you own should have a little twist to it. Even a black top – especially a black top! It’s what separates a person who simply wears clothes from a person who puts effort and self-confidence in what they purchase and how they present themselves. Stores like Everlane and & Other Stories are technically fine, I guess, the quality is there, but they’ve built entire aesthetics around the absence of a twist, an aesthetic of “blah” and shapeless and self-consciousness – not exactly something to get excited about. 

    There’s no definitive guide to any of this, which is both a frustration and a pleasure (keeping the spots local). Eater and Time Out just can’t capture it: the Mulberry Street happy hour crowd spilling onto the sidewalk, the forever-packed room at Cipriani Downtown glowing under its yellow awning from noon to midnight, the joy of Stone Street in FiDi on St. Patrick’s Day. The city’s best social information still travels by word of mouth and pure dumb luck (usually on a day where you hit twenty thousand steps). And you can’t spell word of mouth without thinking of Sunbleacht. Puzzle that one out, I dare you!

  • Pumps, Polos, and Pencil Skirts: An Intern’s Guide to Officewear

    There’s a difference between an appropriate work outfit and a fantastic work outfit. Of course, you want to be noticed for your hard work, given the return offer, promoted for your ability to exceed expectations. But adding onto my earlier notes on European fashion, you dress up to make yourself look more polished, because you have self-respect to get up in the morning and not wear sweatpants and lounge around all day. And it’s a superficial reflection of self, sure, but it shows where you choose to shop in your free time, if you’re bold or basic (totally fine and acceptable at work – I branch out in style after I clock out), and if you notice the finer details, like how a notch blazer is less showy versus a peak blazer that’s more defined. 

    I’ll limit my scope here to women’s fashion, since that’s what I know best. Although – digression – if a guy dresses nicely, it stands out, like a nice turquoise polo on a summer day, and I love a salmon pink Oxford shirt and navy slacks combination. I guess no one wears cufflinks anymore, or ties, even, but I think the accessories, for men at least, is a nice touch of individuality and taste in an otherwise ubiquitous sea of office suits in Midtown.

    Let’s start with the obvious. All black makes you look like you’re attending a funeral. Ridiculously oversized makes you look insecure or very unattuned to social cues, unless maybe it’s casual Friday and you’re digging out boyfriend jeans. Although I could never wear balloon pants, as a rule – if Vogue says they’re in style, they need to fire the industry fashion plants that voiced that absurd opinion in the first place. 

    I think that polyester vests that button down the middle look tacky. Polyester clothes are tacky, period, but the vests in particular with the little divot at the bottom that shows off the navel is really kind of revolting. J. Crew used to have such nice cotton basics, and now whenever I walk into the store, I’m touching plastic, and, shamefully for the brand, I don’t know if it’s the mannequin or the clothes she’s wearing. 

    White and cream don’t look good together (say, a pencil skirt and a shirt) in almost all cases – it just looks like you didn’t have the exact matching color, and rather lazily tried to pull a matching set off. I do think that Mary Janes make you look like you’re five years old. 

    Work dresses are a bit of a grey area for me. I’ve realized, through my own observation, that they can be pulled off well, or they can look frumpy or cheap, and it’s tough to strike a balance. Long work dresses, especially those with a tighter waist and made with synthetic fabrics – sometimes even linen – remind me a bit of Laura Ingalls Wilder. With a short work dress, you run the risk of it being too short, but they do generally are easier to wear without tailoring. Work dresses, because they tend towards the slouchy, is an item of clothing I’d break my never-all-black rule, because making a black outfit look frumpy is more difficult (even though it does make you look a little morose, I think.)

    Now onto what makes you look nice. 

    At a recent work gala, with an evening dress code, I noticed a few nice Zimmermann dress, a yellow Maje silk dress with a rhinestone collar, two light blue long button down linen dresses, in steel blue and cobalt blue, that looked sharp and yet mature and appropriate (probably worn straight from work). A couple of pink and light blue dresses from Nana Jacqueline as well. My favorite look, besides the Maje rhinestone dress, was an baby-blue asymmetric empire dress, maybe from Anthropologie, and generally I’m not a huge fan of that brand (too “clean girl,” no whimsy), but it was such an eye-catcher and conversation -starter!

    For the office, all navy is a classic. I have a navy Tahari blazer that I adore, maybe a little more business-casual based on the cotton material, but defined by tiny gold buttons down the middle and white edges that line invisible pockets on the waist. Aritizia’s not my favorite – it’s overpriced, and the materials are pretty low quality for that price – but I have a pair of navy chinos from there that fit me like I’ve gotten them tailored. Pleated pants are adorable and classy – I have a grey pair with the faintest stripes going vertically (stripes should almost always go vertically!) 

    Speaking of pleats, the long skirts with many little pleats look adorable – polka dots were in style last year, and I wish they’d make a comeback. Cherry red was the “in” color last year, and I dearly miss it, because it’s just dashing and so fun. I am just itching to go out and buy a fit-and-flare top for work in either a cherry or a burgundy color, but I’ve got to hold myself back after my Ralph Lauren eBay spree (my favorite life hack for discounts, because I’ve never found anything that looks nice and fits me in an American vintage store).

    On matching colors: a woman that sits near me wears a light pink blazer with matching heels, and I think it’s fantastic and so simple to do that. The French and British women go even further and match their belts to their shoes and blazer, which is just top-notch coordination to me. I love an Oxford long-sleeve polo (bonus if it’s striped) under a knit crewneck. Frilly high-neck collars with bows and ruffles may seem like they’re in the same first-day-of-kindergarten type of outfit, but with artful design and parameters of “good taste,” I really do think they make a top stand out in a positive way – especially if it’s a neutral color. 

    I could go on at length discussing color combinations, fabric layering, and accessory pairings that I’ve seen, walking down the street, that are more creative than any work-related ideas that Pinterest or Instagram could serve up for me. In a way I’m glad I haven’t curated my feed enough – it leaves me to notice the details in-person, because, at my core, I’m distrustful of everything I see online. Who knows if the influencer that pops up was paid to promote a product, and then you’re subconsciously influenced to buy that brand that’s got this particular brown suede skirt in stock? The model – or the clothes on the model – could be AI-generated, for crying out loud! Being online is a poor substitute for seeing an outfit in-person – I’ve been duped too many times, and I refuse to give another dollar to a store that’ll ship me plastic imitating something that could be worn on your body. SO seeing the people in real-time in FiDi and Midtown – going about their day with steely looks and an air of confidence – drives me, a little bit, part in a competitive spirit (I think to myself– I can work just as hard as her!) but also part from my own interest in cultural anthropology. Hell, my style improved just in the first four weeks of my internship for that reason alone!

  • Beachy, Baroque, and the In-Between: Thoughts on Interior Design

    I believe it’s of unique importance, and a core part of self-identity, to find a personal style: not from a trend, not from a magazine, but something curated and deeply personal. The office and the classroom are places which your own hand has no will to design – coming home to a home that’s personal and designed of your own free will, I believe, is core to establishing your identity. My design philosophy, or what I view to be aesthetically pleasing, pulls in different directions, and through my research for my upcoming Gallatin “colloquium” – more of a text-based review than the vigorous thesis defense I envisioned – I’ve been skimming through books about aesthetics, histories of design, and obviously, for intellectual dessert, the pretty homes I see on Pinterest and Zillow. Design, it turns out, is not such a soft subject as Architectural Digest catalogues will have you believe. It has economics, ethics, and ideology baked into every decision: what materials you source, what you preserve, what you tear down, and what you choose to live with.

    I’ve also come to believe it’s important to have a principled and logical top-down taste in design, something to be cultivated from an initial innate moment of aesthetic appreciation, a logic tree that delineates from a core statement, to a school of design, to individual items, which is why I’m trying to resolve my contradictions in my taste rather than picking and choosing, willy nilly, what looks good. In a house, it’s rather strange to have one room influenced by Lilly Pulitzer, and the next by 18th century Romanticism, just like in a head, it’s contradictory to be a “minimalist hoarder” or take on other oxymoronic self-descriptions.

    What I’ve come to understand is that taste is not static. Some of what I loved at 17 now looks grossly garish to me. And Architectural Digest, once the canonical authority, now feels like proof of how quickly a taste-making institution can lose whimsy: minimalist interiors that are antithetical to how personal a home should be, curated by interior designers that went to one or two design schools that now dictate modern “taste,” losing history in favor of new and trendy and ultimately into the discard pile. Unfortunately, nothing less than an ultra-curated Pinterest feed really gets it right, not in a snobby way that signals superior taste, but in a disappointing manner that shows culture’s sway towards the singular importance of celebrities, who, in my opinion, are less worthwhile to listen for their opinions than the vagrant aspiring evangelist on the street corner that’s gone off his rocker.

    I gravitate towards beachy and light aesthetics in my own interior design philosophy. Growing up near the water has made wide open horizons feel like a baseline requirement for happiness — translating into my predilection for large bay windows, white stucco exteriors, and the particular quality of light that bounces off pale walls in the afternoon. The modern obsession with dark grey “accents” to an existing modern home is dull: they make rooms feel smaller and heavier, which is precisely the opposite of what a home should do. Lilly Pulitzer’s tropical prints, which shock the viewer with their bright colors, are aggressively cheerful, force a change in mood – they insist on optimism. On a gray January morning in New York, a Lilly Pulitzer duvet cover set cheers me up, sets me on my way to class. 

    In terms of exterior, my favorite house in the world is Seashell House in Isla Mujeres, Mexico — white stucco curved into two seashells, a playful sculpture to live in. Let me use this as a case study for what I believe a home should be: a form of biophilic design, combining nature with man-made dwellings to be mentally uplifting and whimsical and unexpected. And furthermore, in the stucco exterior and open-door living, that’s the Mediterranean sensibility I keep returning to: the villas on the French Riviera, Amalfi coast, Florida homes based on that Mediterranean architecture. White stucco and aged brick are my two favorite exteriors. 

    Bathroom wallpaper is one place I’d break the white-wall rule – contained spaces can hold a stronger pattern (don’t conflate that with single-toned dark walls), and I love murals and hand-painted tile mosaics in a bathroom, something in the blue-and-white chinoiserie tradition I developed a fixation on through a British design course. The same logic applies to the kitchen: glazed mosaic tile backsplashes, copper fixtures with some patina to them, the small details that signal that a person lives here and has opinions. Bronze faucets shaped like sea creatures, copper mermaid door handles, a chandelier in the dining room with crystals and small candlesticks at even intervals are the specifics I find myself returning to.

    Back to biophilic design. My mom’s garden was the earliest introduction: hydrangeas, roses, lily of the valley, daffodils, lilac bushes, a row of evergreens along the property line. Inside, golden pothos climbing vines, squat little succulents, and hibiscus trees grace our living room. Books, too, are one of my favorite items of decor, and useful, because I’ll consume a book like a piece of tiramisu, and also the wall of unread books reminds me to put away the credit card at McNally Jackson. More than half the rooms in my house have a bookshelf, each with a different theme – the paperbacks in my room are bright and colorful and host the more expensive editions of Kurt Vonnegut (I just love how his book covers use such bright colors–so ironic!) The sunroom on the second floor has got my yearbooks, as well as titles like War and Peace and the Secret History from a used bookstore – all crammed too close to the bookend-less shelf for my comfort.

    The part of my design philosophy that I haven’t fully resolved is between light, airy beachy aesthetic and my love of Romantic-era painting, the kind of rich, dark-framed canvases you find in the European wing of The MET, where I could spend an entire afternoon. A deeply saturated Eugene Delacroix painting doesn’t sit easily next to white-washed walls and rattan furniture. I haven’t reconciled this yet, and I need to figure out how to make this clash work. Maybe the answer lies in the notion that the best interiors look like they took years to curate. In one of my classes about adaptive reuse in architecture, we learned about pastische and patina – “bad” pastische in architecture is when a creator clumsily mimics another era, and while it’s hard to avoid without knowing the ins and outs of a historical design school, I disagree with the British scoffing attitude of “bad” patische, it’s miles better than living in a modern white box without personality. To combine optimism, bright colors, Mediterranean style, biophilic design, my beachy aesthetic, and my Romanticist taste in art is a tall order – but I know that my room, my taste in fashion, my future house, will be uniquely me and not dictated by a trend or haphazard juxtaposition, but the result of design study, an axiom that delineates into schools of design and down to particular objects. Maybe it will, in the end, be an appreciation of aesthetic beauty when all those items fall together in place – I do believe that the more my taste is curated, the more research I do, the likelier it’ll be that I’ll stumble upon a culmination of taste that supersedes terrestrial and temporal “design schools” and bridges my contradictory tastes.

  • Notes on the Art of Dressing Well: Observations from Europe

    One of my favorite pastimes is looking at how people dress. Fashion feels wonderfully alive to me, something to play with and observe, a language of its own in fabric and silhouette. I had such fun noticing the differences between European (an overgeneralization, of course, given the regional nuances) and New York fashion. The distinctions, which I will try to untangle here, seem shaped far more by climate than by taste alone. You will not need a coat in Mallorca, and in Tromsø you will be grateful for anything insulated before you begin to think about aesthetics, save perhaps for a bikini in a sauna before a polar plunge into the harbor’s ice-cold water.

    In London, I saw ballet flats, heels, and boots everywhere; sneakers on women were comparatively rare, especially when contrasted with New York. Beige coats dominated the streets—some unmistakably Burberry, others renditions. In London, heels and boots seemed nearly universal; yes, women in New York wear them too, yet the prevalence of a heeled boot throughout Europe creates an impression of height and refinement that subtly alters posture.  Walking through the financial district, not Canary Wharf with its glass towers to the east but the one-square-mile City of London itself, I was struck by the visible effort women put into their workwear. I do not often walk through Midtown during the morning commute, so perhaps I miss something, yet in New York the black summer suit appears almost obligatory, which feels dreary given the possibilities of color and fabric available to professional clothing. Even in SoHo’s Aritzia, where certain pieces are still somewhat charming, the lack of natural fibers makes the clothing faintly lifeless despite the scattered pale pink and light blue hues.

    I would sometimes go to class without makeup, maybe wet hair, and feel a bit unfinished, almost like I had forgotten to brush my teeth or put my shoes on, because so many women wore lipstick, styled hair, and had an air of deliberate polish– I loved their effort, their preparation! I noticed a lot of bright reds, as well as coordinated belts, boots, and bags (especially dark brown or purple). In New York, I’ll notice a range of fur coats – mostly faux, occasionally rabbit, sometimes mink – which are impractical for London’s damp climate. In my opinion, a faux fur collar can be elegant but an entire coat looks garish.

    Harrods, the department store, deserves mention. The gift shop alone was where the theories in my class on British design came alive: stationery, water bottles, umbrellas, all-bearing William Morris prints, Victorian flourishes, and that particular British affection for nature and calligraphy. Every object, down to the pens, was bespoke. I left with a light blue Harrods toile tote for summer, and a green menagerie-themed pen and stationery set: all my holiday cards for the year were written on those!

    Bruges, Belgium, surprised me with its colorful sartorial selection. I brought home a huge white scarf, delicate lavender gloves, and a pink mohair sweater that looked like a very well-bred cloud, along with pieces influenced by Antwerp, often called Belgium’s fashion capital. The textures felt alive – and I thoroughly appreciated the look of fluffy mohair afterwards!

    Positano’s boutiques were astonishingly expensive, but the patterns were too magnificent to dismiss on price alone. A dark blue bikini with polka-dot lemons caught my eye (I swear I couldn’t stop admiring it for five full minutes); a coral sundress stole my heart. Tourists chose structured sun hats over classically American baseball caps and flowing skirts over denim; long patterned trousers for those riding motorcycles, sometimes leather if one arrived prepared. Beyond fashion, the sculptural, painted, and ceramic galleries awed me beyond comparison (and so did those craggy mountains overlooking the Amalfi coast!), and though my suitcase and budget discouraged indulgence, I wished I could have brought some art home.

    Rome and Trieste offered beautifully made clothing at astonishingly modest prices, from long fall coats trimmed with faux fur to linen dresses and silk tops. My only hesitation was tailoring; they were pretty much one-size-fits-all, and many garments would need adjustment (I need to learn to sew anyway!). In a Roman vintage store, I found real fur boots no longer produced by MoonBoot, created by an owner who once lived above Caffè Reggio in Greenwich Village in the 1990s, and I carried them home for a fraction of what I would have paid in the United States.

    In Prague and Paris, fur coats lined the streets and filled shop windows, and vintage and consignment shopping seemed like a cultural habit rather than an occasional indulgence. In Prague, I visited a shop where Louis Vuitton second-hand purses were priced at a quarter of their American equivalents. I particularly loved the independent boutiques and store concepts: I even encountered a café-bar-laundromat hybrid, quite practical and charming. The color palette skewed darker there, closer to New York’s signature black sartorial palette.

    Conversely, Berlin surprised me by how little black I saw during the day: like London, there were plenty of beige and soft neutrals. Vienna and Bratislava leaned more alternative, closer to what one imagines of Berlin’s daytime aesthetic. At night, however, fashion shifted dramatically, especially in certain clubs that shall remain unnamed, where clothing became minimal… and whatever remained on had to be, well, sexy, panther-like.

    In Mallorca, I focused on their jewelry stores (to be honest, the clothes were geared towards middle-aged German tourists). I purchased several silver bracelets and a real pearl one from two different shop owners who were generous with their time and stories. The first shop, tucked away on a quiet street near Palma’s cathedral, displayed silver bracelets that caught the sunlight beautifully, mesmerizingly. Around that time, I decided to commit more seriously to silver, which complements my pale skin better than gold ever has (tragic!). The pearl jeweler from one of the aforementioned stores chatted with me for an hour in the midmorning, explaining oyster cultivation practices in China and Australia and the global demand for Mallorca’s factory-made pearls. I chose a real one, slightly irregular and cream-toned (shockingly student-budget appropriate, mind you).

    Fashion in Tromsø occupies a different category altogether. Everything was ridiculously expensive, being so far away from the rest of the world’s commerce: a casual restaurant burger was thirty-four dollars. There were few fashion boutiques, which is understandable in a place where the need for warmth supersedes aesthetics. To stand out, though, the gift shops leaned heavily into bold “Norway” lettering as part of their appeal. I relied on my chic fur boots from that thrift shop in Rome, thermal layers, and the white Bruges scarf to endure the cold. In the Polar Museum, wax figures dressed in fur-lined hats and coats, commonplace here before mass-produced Canada Goose parkas took over. It was neat to see that Arctic exploration was done in outerwear both functional and enviable (I’ve hardly seen a nicer coat during NY Fashion Week!).

    If I regret anything, it is not purchasing more jewelry, which tends to be more expensive and less durable in the United States. Much of the faux gold that’s now in style appears tacky and garish, and unsuitable for water, which defeats its purpose for me since I refuse to remove bracelets at the beach. 

    Back to clothing ethics and basics: sustainability and durability distinguish what feels enduring from what quickly falls apart. Fabrics must match and flow easily into one another; matching accessories create a nice sense of coherence. In A Very Short Introduction to Beauty, which I enjoyed reading on trips through London’s Underground, the author writes that fashion “permits people to play with appearances, to send recognizable messages to the society of strangers, and to be at one with their own appearance in a world where appearances count.” That sentiment validated my distaste for certain parts of New York’s prevailing style before I left: sweatpants, oversized silhouettes, and ubiquitous leggings often project something too casual to take oneself seriously.

    What I saw across many European cities was a sense of self-certainty expressed through dress, a willingness to participate in one’s own presentation.

    Interestingly, Europe has recently taken a legislative step that may reinforce that attitude toward clothing. New regulations under the European Union’s Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD) establish a framework requiring large companies—generally those with more than 1,000 employees—to conduct due diligence regarding human rights violations and environmental impacts across their supply chains. Among other things, the law makes it far more difficult for companies to rely on loosely regulated overseas subsidiaries to produce clothing without accountability for labor practices or sustainability standards.

    While these rules primarily affect the largest brands, they represent a meaningful step in addressing the harms of fast fashion, which has become damaging both to the environment and to the workers who produce inexpensive garments at scale. Beyond those structural concerns, fast fashion also carries an aesthetic consequence: clothing made to be disposable often looks disposable. The effect can feel disconnected, as though the wearer has little relationship to the objects they choose to put on their body.

    Dressing well, in the sense I observed across many European streets, seems tied to a different mentality — one that values durability, materials, and intention. If clothing is a form of self-expression, it is difficult to separate that expression from the conditions under which it was made. As reasoning beings, the choices we make about what we buy inevitably reflect the values we hold, and there is something quietly satisfying about purchasing from companies that attempt to uphold ethical standards while producing garments meant to last.

    Fashion, after all, is not simply decoration; it is participation.

  • Confessions of a Lifeguard

    By Becky, (who is) still waiting for the Baywatch end credit

    The best job a girl could have is a beach lifeguard. I’d liken my experience to that of a cloistered nun – though instead of a habit and floor-length black garb, I’d don a red swimsuit and tan like Pam Anderson in Baywatch. 

    I’d ride five blocks on my baby blue beach cruiser bike to work, skid in at ten-fifteen on the dot, toy with my frayed Pura Vida bracelet as the lieutenant assigned lifeguards to our posts for the day. I’d immediately pipe up when they asked who wanted the bays – first and last word I’d say in the morning. Five past ten is too early of a wakeup time to spare any energy for chitchat, despite what Big Employment tells us. The bays were the easiest to guard: no waves and no one on the beach until lunchtime, except for a lone retiree and maybe a stray Brooklynite that thought they could sneak into Breezy Point. Those fools! I can spot them by their scowl and hideous man-buns! That’s not a friendly Breezy Pointer! 

    Couple minutes later, I’d scoop up a walkie-talkie from the basket and cruise three blocks to the lifeguard chair, throwing down my bike on the sand, rusted kickstand be damned. I’d clumsily set up the patriotic Cooperative-provided umbrella (an Irish girl’s got to have a barrier between her pale skin and enemy number one, sunlight) and tuck my legs to my chest, watching the little sailboats with white masts drift past the buoys, Brooklyn a mile-and-a-half in front of me, the Manhattan skyline just beyond, just a haze in midmorning. From my vantage point six feet from the ground, if I wished, I could survey the shores of New Jersey to my far left, Staten Island (didn’t particularly care to look much at those two entities, to be perfectly honest), Coney Island, Manhattan Beach (the kind with the nouveau-riche Russians, not the Californians) to my twelve-o-clock, the control tower at JFK, and the postcard-ready white-and-blue Breezy Point lighthouse to my right. What a joy to have all of New York City under my supervision! No crime, no death, no taxes under my watchful gaze! 

    I’d then turn my attention to the most important matter, the life-or-death duty of every tried-and-true lifeguard: considering the topic of philosophical thought for the day, my music choice for the hour. Now, don’t pretend like I wasn’t completely alert and ready to save lives at a moment’s notice – the horseshoe crab had moved six inches towards the shoreline since I’d set up my umbrella, actually, I’ll have you know. As for the music choice, sometimes Bob Marley would win out, and I’d pretend to be somewhere in the Caribbean sipping from a coconut. Maybe I’d put on the Doors and “Riders from the Storm” would become background noise for lofty sorts of ideas that ranged from religion to politics to whether I really agreed with Ayn Rand about the merits of form-follows-function architecture and professional success as (wo)man’s defining source of happiness. A girl’s got nothing else to do when staring at the sea. Also, I was unreasonably obsessed with Ayn Rand this summer, later vindicated by those 24-year-old AI startup Silicon Valley geniuses who probably cracked ten million in seed funding before I got up for my lunch break.

    At first thought, I sound irritatingly pretentious, but I’ve got a long history of hours spent staring at a pool, lifeguarding in Brooklyn that forced a level of boredom upon me that punished any want for instant gratification. If you were caught with your phone on the chair, you were sacked, and I didn’t dare risk a reprimand from my supervisor, a no-nonsense mother of three who ran the place like a warship. 

    Back on the sand. Can you imagine a New York City beach with absolutely nobody, yes, devoid of people, not a single soul as far as the eye can see? Can you imagine Billionaire’s Row and One World Trade within sight distance, sun beating down on your skin, and yet a silence so still you considered for a moment that you might be deaf? Can’t you see why I’d spend every single waking second for the rest of my life if I could, sitting here, day in, day out, 80 degrees, three little white sailboats within swimming distance, good music, and any little worries swallowed whole by the current in Jamaica Bay?

    Unfortunately and rather cynically, the lightning strike at the beginning of last August kind of took me out of my reverie. Apparently you’ve got a one in ten thousand chance of getting struck by a bolt. I don’t count myself as one of the (un)lucky, though, because I think only my umbrella was hit (who woulda thought, the tallest metal point around really does attract lightning, I just wanted to put good old Ben Franklin to the test!). I bought a lotto ticket the next day and didn’t win the Powerball. So there was really no point, I guess, except it’s a really killer icebreaker fact in an otherwise routine round-the-class introduction, and I got recognized once at the local pub. Maybe it was a much-needed jolt back to reality, a sign telling me that Ayn Rand was right: I need to take pride in my work and not just listen to reggae all day on the lifeguard chair. Or maybe it was just a great excuse to get a paid day off, which, complete no-brainer, I spent at the beach. Even got to wear a real bikini this time!

  • On Eccentricity

    A little old lady with purple tortoiseshell glasses, green acrylic nails and mild halitosis; an apartment covered floor-to-ceiling with jungle print and crocheted stuffed animals and hideously clashing shades of orange, purple and green; the lone woman in black paint and white straightjacket with long, stringy black hair that performs a nauseating sort of interpretive dance in front of Washington Square Arch. That right there is the spectrum of people and places I’ve always thought of when I hear the word “eccentric.”

    So when Alisia christened our magazine’s tagline as, “eccentric, for the eccentric, by the eccentric,” I had reservations. I obsessed over finding an alternative with an amount of neurotic determination that’s wildly inappropriate for three syllables. “Unconventional?” Too overused to be catchy. A word that’s been chewed up, spat out, and stepped on by lifestyle brands. “Bizarre?” Now that evokes impressions of a Moroccan bazaar, a two-headed goat, a bright green Ripley’s Believe It or Not! encyclopedia. It would be blasphemous to refer to ourselves as bizarre. We’re hard-working taxpayers (on paper), not circus animals. “Freaky?” Not quite the kind of thing I’d want my future employers to see in the search results. “FREAKY by FREAKS for FREAKS.” Yeah, this girl would be a great fit for our, uh, asset management division.

    But the die was cast. Eccentric’s hold on our brand had gone past the point of last return, sailed far past the strait of Gibraltar, had shot light-years beyond the Van Allen belt. I surrendered to Alisia’s vision – creative director knows best, creative director knows best. Eccentric, I decided, would be gifted a rebrand, free of charge. Merriam-Webster would be sent a rather demanding letter to see to the change. It was no longer the kind of word you’d get called by a fair-weather friend that attempts to explain the off-kilter sort of way about you to another friend while you’re getting yourself another drink at a house party. The eccentric subject would no longer cower under the weight of the connotation of “strange” or “uncool” in purple tortoiseshell glasses and a feather boa. 

    We had a radical new eccentric to define – had to be sharp, irreverent, witty, flirtatious, probably. A heavy burden for three girls who can count daytime naps under their top five favorite hobbies.

    How to start? I sought advice from Descartes’ basics – I think, therefore I am. Writers are eccentric, naturally. The good ones, certainly. Occasionally, even the bad ones (lucky me!). The sort of oddity that describes eccentricity really boils down to juxtaposition. Eccentricity is passion, obviously manifested; eccentricity is nonconformity, visually and cognitively. Eccentricity is a vision seen through a tunnel wide enough for only one head. 

    I’d like to think our magazine will define our own brand of eccentricity. I love to criticize a mission statement that misses the mark, so to allow myself to be a little lazy, and to retain a little wily feminine mystery, I’ll keep my examples close. I’ll let Sunbleacht speak for itself.